Friday, May 31, 2013
Highway 417 East Driving Time Lapse
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
SeaLife Mini II Wide Angle Lens for Mini II SL330, Reefmaster Mini SL320 & ECOshot SL321 Underwater Cameras from SeaLife
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You Save : Check Lower Price
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Get closer to the subject and still fit everything in the shot with the SeaLife SL974 Mini II Wide Angle Lens. It is compatible with the SeaLife Mini II (item SL330), ReefMaster Mini (item SL320) and ECOshot (item SL321) underwater cameras.
Feature
- 0.65X conversion lens increases shooting angle by 33%
- Easily snaps on and off underwater
- For sharp close-up shooting distance of 1ft (30cm) to infinity
- Fully-multi coated optical glass
- Waterproof to 130 ft (40m)
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Defender Security 82-7595 Wide Angle Black and White Door Peephole Camera by Defender
Now Have Our company's Defender Security 82-7595 Wide Angle Black and White Door Peephole Camera Prepared to Send
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Perfect substitution for door "peepholes". This camera can be integrated into a home video system for identification of a guest without leaving the comfort of your chair. The camera is designed to fit into a 7/8" hole and can easily be adjusted to fit doors up to 23/4" thick. 1/3" CCD produces 420 lines of resolution with a minimum illumination of 0.05 lux. Wide angle lens provides a viewing angle of 170¡.
Note: For indoor use or use behind high quality storm doors only.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Niño Capta Duende Disadvantage La Camara P Su Celular
Thursday, May 23, 2013
The new sony Cyber-Shot DSC-TX66 Versus TX20: Which Camera Is Much Better?
The new sony has lengthy been familiar with the miniaturization of their Texas series cameras. They're compact and simply matches the pocket, yet frequently with impressive technical specifications with regards to the dimensions.
The recently introduced cameras - the The new sony TX20 and TX66 - offer a similar experience in design but have different qualities. The The new sony TX20 is really a rugged pocket-sized camera that's waterproof as much as 5 meters deep, can withstand a surprise from the fall as much as height of just one.5 meters, and may withstand temps lower to -10 levels Celsius.
The optics that actually works fully automatic includes a 16.2 mega pixels Exmor R CMOS sensor along with a 4x zoom Carl Zeiss lens. It is the same as 35mm cameras having a 25 to 100 mm wide position view with focus of f/3.5 to 4.6. Zoom is outfitted with optical stabilizer in Active Mode to reduce image blur in photos. To stress the standard of their high-resolution sensor, its Liquid crystal display measures 3 inches (diagonal) with 921,600 pixels.
Additionally, it includes a touch screen display, which regrettably does not work correctly when it's immersed in water. The compact Cyber-shot TX20 can also be fast in shooting images, having a maximum continuous shooting mode at 10 fps. It will have numerous advanced modes including HDR photo with wider dynamic range, Handheld Twilight, Anti Motion Blur, three dimensional photos, Sweep Panorama (in 2D or three dimensional), and a variety of creative filters known as Picture Effects.
The The new sony TX20 can record video entirely HD 1920 x 1080 AVCHD format. Throughout recording, you may still make use of the optical zoom, in addition to concurrently shoot photos having a resolution of 12 mega pixels. It works with Thumb Drive Micro memory cards, both with microSD / microSDHC, as the battery is ranked as much as 250 shots per charge (battery is lithium).
Obtainable in black, blue, orange, eco-friendly and pink, the The new sony TX20 come in stores from May 2012, having a cost close to 300 dollars. The The new sony TX66, however, doesn't provide the robust excellence of the TX20, but has lots of talents, beginning using the design. Its thickness is just 12.2 mm, the littlest of Cyber-shot cameras up to now.
Plus there is the brand new Exmor R CMOS sensor with 18.2 megapixel resolution, based on a really fast autofocus system. Under optimal light conditions, it promises a time period of focus of just .13 seconds. It features a 5x optical zoom, image stabilization, wide position equal to a 26 to 130 mm, and f stops of f/3.5-4.8.
On the rear of your camera is definitely an OLED touch screen display a great deal larger and much more defined than its predecessor TX55. It's 3.3 inches (diagonal) with 1.23 million pixels resolution. Functions are essentially identical to the TX20. Its memory slot accepts MS Duo and SD. Obtainable in gold, silver, whitened, red-colored, crimson and pink, the The new sony TX66 is going to be on purchase from March 2012 towards the cost close to 330 dollars.
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-H55 14.1MP Digital Camera with 10x Wide Angle Optical Zoom with SteadyShot Image Stabilization and 3.0 inch LCD (Black) by Sony
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The DSC-H55's 10x wide (25mm equivalent) lens takes better shots from greater distances and wider landscapes in a compact body. Take breathtaking panoramic shots in one sweeping motion with Sweep Panorama mode and review them on a 3.0" LCD screen. Take clearer images with Optical SteadyShot image.
Feature
- 10x optical zoom Sony G-Lens (25mm-equivalent wide angle); Capture breathtaking images in Sweep Panorama Mode
- 14.1-megapixel CCD sensor; 3.0-inch LCD screen
- HD Movie mode (720p); take stable movies while walking in Active Mode
- iAuto automatically optimizes camera settings; Smile Shutter technology automatically captures a smile
- Card slot for optional Memory Stick Duo media and SD media
Monday, May 20, 2013
3.5 inch 170 degrees Wide Angle Peephole TFT LCD Digital Door Viewer Doorbell Security Camera Cam from Brand New
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Description:
3.5 inch color TFT LCD panel display, 320 x 240 screen resolution
Can be installed on the door
Uses CCD or CMOS image sensor
Monitor the situation out of the door, press monitor button to turn on the display to see outside anytime.
Alarming function
Cable connection, wall or table mounts installation.
Ring indicates the visitor's coming.
Can press monitor by 1500 times at least per 3 pcs AA battery. (NOT INCLUDED)
Auto extends shut off when nobody answers
Specifications:
Image Sensor: 300,000 Pixel CMOS
Optical lens: View Angle 60 degrees
Peephole: View Angle: 170 degrees
LCD Screen: 3.5 inch TFT
Power Source: 3 AA Batteries (Batteries are not included)
Barrel: 12 mm ~14mm
Door Thickness: barrel will fit doors that are 35~65 mm wide
Size: 155mm x 105mm x 30mm
Weight: 420g
Package Included:
1 x Peephole viewer (language: English and Chinese)
1 x Peephole Len
1 x instruction book
1 x Peephole Barrel
Feature
- 1.3.5 inch color TFT LCD panel display, 320 x 240 screen resolution
- 2.Uses CCD or CMOS image sensor
- 3.Monitor the situation out of the door, press monitor button to turn on the display to see outside anytime
- 4.Alarming function
- 5.Ring indicates the visitor's coming.
Friday, May 17, 2013
Using Nikon Equipment For Wildlife And Character Photography
Choosing the Right Digital SLR for Your Nature Photography
It is very true that it doesn't matter what equipment you use -- it's what you do with the camera that matters. However, there is no question that when you're hiking through a thick jungle in the middle of central america you want to pack light. Even though the Nikon D2x has the prestige of being Nikon's premier "PRO" camera, you may not find it's the best fit for your nature work.
One of the first things you need to consider is how you're going to use the pictures. Look up the magazines you want to publish your work. Send in for "submission guidelines" and find out their minimum mega pixel count. The same is true for stock agencies -- browse around and decide which place you'd ultimately like to sell your work. Many organizations have their submission guideliens published on their websites. If you're more interested in learning and doing nature photography for your own pleasure then by all means buy the less expensive models. There's nothing wrong with a camera that takes a 5 or 6 megapixel image. You'll still be able to blow it up to poster size if you want a special print made.
Choosing the Right Digital SLR for Your Nature Photography
It is very true that it doesn't matter what equipment you use -- it's what you do with the camera that matters. However, there is no question that when you're hiking through a thick jungle in the middle of central america you want to pack light. Even though the Nikon D2x has the prestige of being Nikon's premier "PRO" camera, you may not find it's the best fit for your nature work.
One of the first things you need to consider is how you're going to use the pictures. Look up the magazines you want to publish your work. Send in for "submission guidelines" and find out their minimum mega pixel count. The same is true for stock agencies -- browse around and decide which place you'd ultimately like to sell your work. Many organizations have their submission guideliens published on their websites. If you're more interested in learning and doing nature photography for your own pleasure then by all means buy the less expensive models. There's nothing wrong with a camera that takes a 5 or 6 megapixel image. You'll still be able to blow it up to poster size if you want a special print made.
Magnification - Use it to your Advantage
For wildlife photographers in particular, the one advantage of shooting with any Nikon digital camera these days is the magnification factor. Rather than create a sensor the same size as one frame of 35mm film, Nikon and most other digital SLR camera manufacturers decided to create a sensor that is smaller than the 24x36mm standard frame of the older film models. Having a smaller sensor means you aren't going to capture all the information on the left and right and top and bottom of the frame. This may sound really bad... but there is no need to worry about what you haven't captured because the viewfinder has been adjusted so that what you see optically is what is captured in the digital file.
The result is that the camera multiplies the magnification of all the lenses. Nikon's magnification (depending on the camera you use) is around 1.5x. That means a 300mm lens is now magnified to 450mm. This is great news for wildlife photographers. The only drawback is that wider angle lenses (like a 17mm wide angle becomes a 25.5mm not-as-wide-angle lens. However, landscape photographers still have some options. I'll get to those in a bit.
Choosing the Right Lenses
Unfortunately, no one can tell you which lenses to buy or "how to build the perfect SLR system for nature photography." Again, it depends on the kinds of photos you like to take, your personal preference and the market where you want to sell your image.
The great advantage of Nikon cameras is that you can use older lenses on your body. This allows a lot more freedom of choice and means you can get really amazing older lenses at shockingly affordable prices.
I'll give you an example. One of my favorite lenses is a 300mm f4 manual focus prime lens from the 1970s. It cost only 0 CAD (meaning it would be much less expensive in American dollars) and the glass is still ED! Nikon especially developed ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass to provide pricise optical colour correction. This special glass (not available in all Nikon lenses) provides the sharp, clear resolution required for superb photographs. The other advantage (at least for me since I generally hike to find wildlife) is that it weighs less and packs small.
Another example -- the 50mm 1.4 auto focus lens (that's right f1.4!) sells for only 6 CAD (again, much less in American dollars). It's actually an 80mm on your body. That means you have a prime lens at 80mm that can take pictures in the darkest settings. And, because Nikon has been perfecting its 50mm lenses since its inception as a company (Nikon used to include a 50mm on all its bodies until well into the late 1980s), it's one of Nikon's very best lenses. It's cheap because 50mm on a 35mm camera is kind of pooey. But 80mm on a digial camera is marvelous. edit
edit caption:
Magnification - Use it to your Advantage
For wildlife photographers in particular, the one advantage of shooting with any Nikon digital camera these days is the magnification factor. Rather than create a sensor the same size as one frame of 35mm film, Nikon and most other digital SLR camera manufacturers decided to create a sensor that is smaller than the 24x36mm standard frame of the older film models. Having a smaller sensor means you aren't going to capture all the information on the left and right and top and bottom of the frame. This may sound really bad... but there is no need to worry about what you haven't captured because the viewfinder has been adjusted so that what you see optically is what is captured in the digital file.
The result is that the camera multiplies the magnification of all the lenses. Nikon's magnification (depending on the camera you use) is around 1.5x. That means a 300mm lens is now magnified to 450mm. This is great news for wildlife photographers. The only drawback is that wider angle lenses (like a 17mm wide angle becomes a 25.5mm not-as-wide-angle lens. However, landscape photographers still have some options. I'll get to those in a bit.
Choosing the Right Lenses for your Style of Nature Photography
Unfortunately, no one can tell you which lenses to buy or "how to build the perfect SLR system for nature photography." Again, it depends on the kinds of photos you like to take, your personal preference and the market where you want to sell your image.
The great advantage of Nikon cameras is that you can use older lenses on your body. This allows a lot more freedom of choice and means you can get really amazing older lenses at shockingly affordable prices.
I'll give you an example. One of my favorite lenses is a 300mm f4 manual focus prime lens from the 1970s. It cost only 0 CAD (meaning it would be much less expensive in American dollars) and the glass is still ED! Nikon especially developed ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass to provide pricise optical colour correction. This special glass (not available in all Nikon lenses) provides the sharp, clear resolution required for superb photographs. The other advantage (at least for me since I generally hike to find wildlife) is that it weighs less and packs small.
Another example -- the 50mm 1.4 auto focus lens (that's right f1.4!) sells for only 6 CAD (again, much less in American dollars). It's actually an 80mm on your body. That means you have a prime lens at 80mm that can take pictures in the darkest settings. And, because Nikon has been perfecting its 50mm lenses since its inception as a company (Nikon used to include a 50mm on all its bodies until well into the late 1980s), it's one of Nikon's very best lenses. It's cheap because 50mm on a 35mm camera is kind of pooey. But 80mm on a digial camera is marvelous.
Lenses - Pros and Cons
While I can't tell you the right lenses to buy for your particular needs... I can give you some feedback/impressions about the particular lenses I am using or have used in the past.
Nikkor 10.5mm f2.8 Fisheye: I never thought such a specialized lens could provide me with so much use. For more information, I've written a short article about how to use a fisheye lens in your nature photography athttp://www.naturestocklibrary.com/gallery/2472892
Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom - This lens is all right. I bought it as a kit lens a long time ago and it's served well for the wider range. I wish I had saved pennies and purchased a 2.8 that offered a wider range (like a 12mm to 25mm).
Tamron 17-35mm f2.8: This is a great lens but, alas, I purchased it for a film camera and the magnification on my digital body means that it isn't that useful in my photography right now. I'm planning on selling it (along with my other wide angle) and buying a 2.8 that has a wider range so I can do more with landscape photography.
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D AF - This is the same lens I discussed earlier. It's small, has a low price tag, allows you to shoot in really dark situations and it's an 80mm on a digital camera. You really can't go wrong.
Nikkor Nikon 80-200mm f2.8D ED AF Zoom - This is a fantastic lens that stays at 2.8 no matter if you are shooting at 80 or 200mm. Again, magnification means it's actually a 300mm zoom. Zooms are great because you can adjust your focus distance depending on where your subject is located. Not so great with subjects that are always far away (like the macaws seen here), but really awesome for docile wildlife like deer. It also has a macro function that works beautifully.
Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D AF Micro, or 105 Micro for short - This is probably Nikon's most used macro lens, probably because the lens can serve triple duty. First of all, it is a macro photography lens and it allows you to take photographs at a 1:1 reproduction ratio (on a 35mm body), which means that a 24 by 36 mm subject will fill the entire frame. Second, it makes a very good general purpose short telephoto lens. Third, it is also at least a very reasonable portrait lens (although, with magnification it may be too much of a telephoto on a digital SLR). I really love this lens for macro photography.
Nikkor 300mm f4 manual focus - While a "prime" lens doesn't offer the flexibilty of a zoom... it's still an ideal choice for getting the best results in your work. This is the same lens I discussed earlier and, considering it cost only 0, it's light & the focusing is so smooth, it's one of my favorite lenses. I never leave home without it.
Nikkor 600mm f5.6 manual focus ED Glass - Again, I paid a lot less for this lens (which is actually a hefty 900mm on a digital body and also has the famous Nikon ED glass!!) because it's an older model and it's manual focus. I spent ,599 USD - but consider that a newer model would go for at least ,000 to ,000, depending on the f stop. Some may argue that 5.6 is a bit too narrow of an f stop but I find the compression with telephoto lenses means that I wouldn't want to shoot a 900mm subject with anything wider than 5.6 (2.8 would make the focus far too shallow on such a far away subject). Although... for closer subjects 2.8 is magic!
In the past, I have also used the Sigma 70-300mm 3.5-5.6 and the Tamron 200-400mm 3.5-5.6 and both served well as affordable zooms while I was learning about photography. I have since sold them to pay for the lenses I currently use.
Lenses - Pros and Cons
While I can't tell you the right lenses to buy for your particular needs... I can give you some feedback/impressions about the particular lenses I am using or have used in the past.
Nikkor 10.5mm f2.8 Fisheye: I never thought such a specialized lens could provide me with so much use. For more information, I've written a short article about how to use a fisheye lens in your nature photography at http://www.naturestocklibrary.com/gallery/2472892
Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom - This lens is all right. I bought it as a kit lens a long time ago and it's served well for the wider range. I wish I had saved pennies and purchased a 2.8 that offered a wider range (like a 12mm to 25mm).
Tamron 17-35mm f2.8: This is a great lens but, alas, I purchased it for a film camera and the magnification on my digital body means that it isn't that useful in my photography right now. I'm planning on selling it (along with my other wide angle) and buying a 2.8 that has a wider range so I can do more with landscape photography.
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D AF - This is the same lens I discussed earlier. It's small, has a low price tag, allows you to shoot in really dark situations and it's an 80mm on a digital camera. You really can't go wrong.
Nikkor Nikon 80-200mm f2.8D ED AF Zoom - This is a fantastic lens that stays at 2.8 no matter if you are shooting at 80 or 200mm. Again, magnification means it's actually a 300mm zoom. Zooms are great because you can adjust your focus distance depending on where your subject is located. Not so great with subjects that are always far away (like the macaws seen here), but really awesome for docile wildlife like deer. It also has a macro function that works beautifully.
Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D AF Micro, or 105 Micro for short - This is probably Nikon's most used macro lens, probably because the lens can serve triple duty. First of all, it is a macro photography lens and it allows you to take photographs at a 1:1 reproduction ratio (on a 35mm body), which means that a 24 by 36 mm subject will fill the entire frame. Second, it makes a very good general purpose short telephoto lens. Third, it is also at least a very reasonable portrait lens (although, with magnification it may be too much of a telephoto on a digital SLR). I really love this lens for macro photography.
Nikkor 300mm f4 manual focus - While a "prime" lens doesn't offer the flexibilty of a zoom... it's still an ideal choice for getting the best results in your work. This is the same lens I discussed earlier and, considering it cost only 0, it's light & the focusing is so smooth, it's one of my favorite lenses. I never leave home without it.
Nikkor 600mm f5.6 manual focus ED Glass - Again, I paid a lot less for this lens (which is actually a hefty 900mm on a digital body and also has the famous Nikon ED glass!!) because it's an older model and it's manual focus. I spent ,599 USD - but consider that a newer model would go for at least ,000 to ,000, depending on the f stop. Some may argue that 5.6 is a bit too narrow of an f stop but I find the compression with telephoto lenses means that I wouldn't want to shoot a 900mm subject with anything wider than 5.6 (2.8 would make the focus far too shallow on such a far away subject). Although... for closer subjects 2.8 is magic!
In the past, I have also used the Sigma 70-300mm 3.5-5.6 and the Tamron 200-400mm 3.5-5.6 and both served well as affordable zooms while I was learning about photography. I have since sold them to pay for the lenses I currently use.
Why I LOVE and Highly Recommend Manual Focus
I used to be terrified of focusing manually. On most auto focus lenses, the focus ring is small and more difficult to use... also there's something really easy about just allowing your camera to do the focusing work for you. I was afraid I couldn't react quickly enough to moving subjects and that I wouldn't be as good as my camera's auto focus. Now I see the errors of my ways.
For wildlife (or people), you want to make sure the main subject's eyes are in perfect focus. You won't be able to sell any image if the eyes aren't in focus. If you shoot a subject 10 feet away at 2.8 and use auto focus, the camera will choose the object closer to the camera (usually the nose, cheek, or eye brow... not the eye itself). A 2.8 aperture means that you will have such a soft depth of field that the eyes will appear out of focus. The older (and more affordable) manual focus lenses have the most beautiful focusing rings you've ever seen. I find it much easier to use manual focus on my 300mm f4 lens from the 1970s than my newer autofocus 80-200mm zoom (using the auto focus feature). Unfortuately, I find the focusing ring on the newer models a little bit pooey... but I did want to make the case for why I think manual focus lenses from the 1970s are the greatest things since sliced bread!
Rule of Thumb for Fast Subjects
You may already be aware that your shutter speed should be at least the same as the distance of your lens. For instance, you need to shoot at least 1/300th of a second if you are using a 300mm lens or hand shake will make your picture look really blurry. And anything larger than 300mm should be put on a tripod (preferably one with a ball head for wildlife work). With magnification, you may be able to get away with shooting a 300mm (a 450mm on your digital) hand-held... at 1/450th of a second or higher...)in a pinch... but investing in a good ball head tripod will really improve your results if your lens is higher than 300mm.
Back on the subject of pairing your shutter speed with lens distance... if you are currently shooting P or Auto it's a good idea to change to shutter priority instead. If you're shooting with a 200mm make sure your shutter is set at 1/300 because of the magnification. All modern digital cameras will then set the aperture to pair with the shutter speed. At the same time, practicing photography on manual settings is always a good idea because it will offer you greater control.
I could write for days about shooting nature and wildlife photography with Nikon equipment but I'll stop for now. You're welcome to read more of my nature photography articles online at http://www.naturestocklibrary.com/Wildlife%20Photography%20Articles.
Thursday, May 16, 2013
The College of Auckland Pelican Quadrotor Test Flight - Ground video
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Sunday, May 12, 2013
School Photography Clubs - Recommended Activities
Here are a few recommended activities for college Photography Clubs to think about.
1. Concentrate on History. Review the introduction of the photo taking process, camera obscura, and also the evolution from film to digita. Create a pinhole camera. Pull out some old 35mm manual physiques and shoot a couple of comes of film.
2. Concentrate on Focus. Discuss how a picture is concentrated. Try to take a few images in focus and out. Review depth of focus and also the lens opening's role in managing depth of focus. Take a number of growing DOF images as one example of.
3. Concentrate on Speed. Discuss shutter speed and it is effect on exposure. Discuss when slow shutter is better so when fast shutter is better. Conduct some photo experiments with students being photograhed while moving, at a number of shutter speeds. Try high-speed photography with water drops or flying bugs or any other fast paced products. Try taking photos of waterfalls at a variety of speeds.
4. Concentrate on Sensitivity. Discuss film sensitivity and camera "ISO" configurations. Discuss when low and sensitivity would be best applied and also the tradeoffs for every. Take a number of images with low and sensitivity and look at the outcome around the images. Try shooting exactly the same image with 100 and 800 speed film for those who have film cameras. Discuss grain on film versus. noise in digital imaging. Discuss the artistic merits of film grain and review methods to reproduce electronically.
5. Concentrate on Exposure. Discuss the parameters affecting exposure - shutter, aperature, sensitivity, lighting. Discuss exposure compensation. Take a number of exactly the same subject different the parameters and resulting exposure. Discuss manual versus. automatic exposure, and also the various exposure modes.
6. Concentrate on Color. Evaluate the color wheel, saturation. How selection of exposure affects saturation. Edit photos and tweak saturation from overboard to black and whitened. Discuss which cameras and flicks have different color qualities. Review whitened balance. Experiment with the proper and wrong custom whitened balance configurations. Find out about custom whitened balance setting techniques and tools. Review how you can change color configurations in publish-production.
7. Concentrate on Black and Whitened. Review historic black and whitened photography. Review methods to convert - greyscale, funnel mixer. Impact of filters on Black and Whitened (grayscale) tones. Review color versus BW images alongside and discuss visual impact. Have each student convert exactly the same image using different techniques or blends and review and discuss.
8. Concentrate on Filters. Review polarizing filter and effect on glare, exposure, color saturation, etc. Examples of with and without. Discuss usefulness of neutral density filters. Discuss split neutral density filters. Review and test out warming and cooling and temperature adjustment filters. Review and test out close-up filters.
9. Concentrate on Editing. Review darkroom film development technique. Review various photo editing tools. Concentrate on fundamental functions in photo editing. Generate a multi-step chance to learn around attaining proficiency in image editing. For additional in this region, see my article on the top 12 Photo Editing Tips.
10. Concentrate on Printing. Discuss paper/ink jet versus photo taking process and press printing. Consider asking an expert digital photographer or lab to print samples of the identical image on lustre, gloss, metallic photo paper, press print and canvas output. Discuss print profiling and color management.
11. Concentrate on Appreciation. Discuss why is a picture "great". Some aspects of composition can come through, and so will the option of subject material, lighting and technical and finishing elements. Possess the students generate magazine or any other print good examples of photos they believe are wonderful, and discuss. Plan a area visit to a photo taking exhibit. REview professional photographers' and students' investment portfolios and provide good and bad critique.
12. Concentrate on Composition. Review rule of thirds, appearing, lighting, camera position, camera position (macro versus tele), lens choice along with other aspects of composition. Spend some time experimentation with a few classic subjects - still existence, egg, human subject, and also have students focus on different factors of composition and lighting. Consider borrowing some professional lights for many additional experiments.
13. Concentrate on Careers. Discuss the numerous types of careers that rely on photography (journalism, child/family, wedding, architectural, sport/event/school, etc.), in addition to individuals that take advantage of it: (insurance, property, forensics, etc.) Consider getting visitors during these areas to talk to the club, and have each club member do an interview and gather samples for any group discussion.
14. Concentrate on Giving. Possess the club brainstorm suggestions to share their talents using the community. Volunteering to assist at nonprofits or perhaps in the college, and creating unique gifts are great ideas here.
15. Concentrate on Fund-Raising. To help keep the club financially healthy, brainstorm suggestions to raise money for that club. Some beginning suggestions: Wall calendars and art work purchase (in the club's talents), photo buttons or keychains, and regular fund raising (food, coupon books, etc.)
16. Concentrate on Technology. Discuss technical stuff that alternation in camera and editing technology (sensor size, image size, stabilization, speed, live-view, in-camera editing, camera features.) Discuss stuff that students would search for in evaluating and contrasting cameras. Provide them with some situations and also have them perform some shopping online to find the best camera and cost. Discuss settlement, gray market and warranty. Discuss obsolescence and skill to upgrade. Review store, mail-order and used or closeout sources (eBay, Craig's list, etc.)
17. Concentrate on Competing. Evaluate the knowing rules and sheets and develop your club's own knowing and award processes and criteria. Research and enter outdoors competitions. Possess a club-only contest every month on the specific subject (character, sports, relatives, pets, architecture, etc.) Best Three-5 of every category visit club finals where outdoors test candidates pick the champion. Use labs, stores and native photography enthusiasts to provide good awards and professional printing from the final products. Use winning products inside your art work fund raisers. Offer to operate outdoors posted competitions for example university student only, professional-only and college-wide.
Enjoy your school photography club, and employ it to develop, develop enjoy yourself!
Saturday, May 11, 2013
The Very Best Hidden Spy Camera Guide - Reviews
Selecting a concealed spy camera requires some homework from you because you will find a lot of options. It may get confusing. This informative guide will enable you to get with the hard part and improve your understanding so that you can determine if this involves obtaining a hidden spy camera.
A spy camera is actually simply a board camera in a everyday household or office item. They are utilised to trap somebody doing something illegal or illicit or something like that they should not do. They've home, office and business programs. The cameras are virtually impossible to identify.
Due to cost competition and technological advances they're more compact then ever and affordable in comparison to simply a couple of years back.
Hidden spy cameras are available in as much as 30 types to match a multitude of needs and configurations so that they merge well. A few of the options are layer clock, desktop loudspeakers, exit sign, emergency light, motion detector, thermostat, tissue box, electrical box, screw, lower view smoke detector and much more.
The majority of the hidden cameras are inside actual working items which improves the deceptiveness.
Here are a few factors to assist show you
1. Color or back and whitened.
2. Wired or wireless. Some wireless models work from the energy from the item, some are powered by batteries. Wireless designs include a built-in transmitter to transmit the signal. A totally free receiver is supplied to obtain the signal.
3. Transmission distance. A choice that provides an additional 1500 ft in your wireless transmissions as much as 2500 ft-nearly half mile may be the high energy option.
4. Evening recording Most designs include evening vision capacity that permit viewing/recording in complete darkness for black and whitened cameras.
5. Digital recording device. You'll need some form of recorder for the camera unless of course you want to monitor what's happening in your TV or computer monitor. There's a brand new type of cameras having a built-in Digital recording device. Images are documented on an Sdcard for ultra easy playback.
6. Prices. Between .00 to in excess of 0.00 based on your selection options.
7. "Body Worn." These items provide you with audio capacity additionally to video and Digital recording device. They're legal in most states. Some example would be the famous ball point pen, 'stick cam', watch and much more.
8. Remote Surveillance. Simply the opportunity to log in to the internet and examine from all over the world and find out what the digital camera is seeing. You'll need a Digital recording device with access to the internet.
Most cameras make use of a The new sony CCD having a wide position lens (3.7 mm) which yields a area of look at 60 levels.
Fundamental essentials most significant factors when choosing a concealed spy camera. The last the first is customer support and technical support. What type of help are you able to get for those who have an issue?
All this ought to be considered when selecting a concealed spy camera to get the main one that's good for you.
Thursday, May 9, 2013
Sunrise Time-lapse
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Sunday, May 5, 2013
Wide Position Camera - POM Dynamic Soaring
Friday, May 3, 2013
VideoSecu Indoor Outdoor Bullet Security Camera Built-in Sony CCD Weatherproof Wide Angle View Lens for CCTV DVR Home Surveillance System with Free Security Warning Decal 1P7 from VideoSecu
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This inconspicuous camera can get crisp and clear pictures. It is better choice for surveillance systems if you don't want to be noticeable. Designed for easy installation, the bullet camera has a weatherproof housing, fits in most indoor and outdoor installations. It includes a mounting bracket. Plug and play ready. Note: This camera not made by SONY, it using SONY Super HAD CCD image sensor and SONY DSP technology, made by one of the world largest OEM manufacture. Free surveillance warning sticker is included.
Feature
- Built-in Sony CCD image sensor, color DSP. NTSC system
- High resolution 420 TV Lines. Built in f 3.6mm Lens. Swivel mount included
- Minimum Illumination: 1 lux at F1.2
- Weatherproof housing. Ideal for indoor, outdoor and covert applications
- Power requirement: DC 12V 500mA (not included)
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